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On the taste trail: Chicken rice with a chef's touch after an urban hike in Choa Chu Kang

LaksaNews

Myth
Member
This week, we get on the taste trail in search of a stall that’s tucked away in the northwest of Singapore. It’s well worth hunting down, especially if we can get a little exercise in before chowing down on their signature chicken rice.

The 20km Western Adventure Loop is made up of several PCNs linking eight parks including the starting point of our walk, Choa Chu Kang Park.

The route I chose was an easy and direct one – a 30-minute walk for about 2km – from the park to the Yew Tee Lifestyle Corridor. This fun, urban trail features a family-friendly zone called The Heart of Yew Tee (Hokkien for “oil pond”) that runs directly under the under the North-South MRT Line. There, you’ll find the Heritage Plaza, which tells the story of Yew Tee’s past as an oil storage site for the British military during World War II.

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Mediacorp GOLD 905 DJ Denise Tan's walk from Choa Chu Kang Park to Yew Tee Lifestyle Corridor looks pretty fun. (Photos: Abundant Productions)
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Mediacorp GOLD 905 DJ Denise Tan's walk from Choa Chu Kang Park to Yew Tee Lifestyle Corridor looks pretty fun. (Photos: Abundant Productions)

The corridor continues to the Waterplay Plaza with spray tunnels and fountains that children will love. Further along, in another nod to Yew Tee’s industrial past, is a dry playground with slides and climbing structures in the distinctive shape of oil drums.

Just seven minutes beyond the playground is where our walk ends – at Ah Boy Chicken Rice in Choa Chu Kang Crescent.

The stall is owned and operated by former hotel chef Chai Kok Sing, 51, better known as Ah Boy, a nickname from his early days of culinary training. “Because when I was working in the hotels, I was always the youngest and everyone called me Ah Boy,” he laughed.

It’s been 18 years since Chai struck out on his own, quietly building a loyal following for his excellent chicken rice. What seems like an ordinary stall in an ordinary HDB estate kopitiam is anything but, especially with the support of his former mentor, celebrity chef Eric Teo, a familiar face from Mediacorp’s King Of Culinary and The 4 Chefs.

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Mediacorp GOLD905's Denise Tan with Ah Boy Chicken Rice's Chai Kok Sing and his wife, Ng Yoke Chin. (Photo: Denise Tan)

“Previously, I had worked in a hotel with Chef Eric and he was my shifu. He often comes (to my stall) and when he posts about it (on social media), a lot of people come,” he revealed.

Drawing crowds is one thing, but getting them to come back is another. And they do. One taste of Ah Boy Chicken Rice, you’ll understand why. Chai’s expertise comes from his mother’s instructions and has been refined through years of experience in hotel kitchens. When asked if theirs is Hainanese or Cantonese-style chicken rice, his wife Ng Yoke Chin, 49, cheekily described their version as “freestyle”.

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Hainanese or Cantonese-style? No, this chicken rice spread was jokingly described as "freestyle." (Photo: Denise Tan)

Indeed, with a strong foundation in classic Chinese cooking, Chai now has the creative freedom to put his own spin on tradition. “My rice is different from others. Because my recipe, cooking method and ingredients are different,” he said confidently.

He was right. I would return for the rice alone. It was rich, intensely nutty and redolent with the aroma of pandan, garlic and a hint of lemongrass. Cooked with chicken broth and chicken fat, its light brown hue spoke of the unique flavour locked in every plump grain.

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Mediacorp GOLD 905's Denise Tan at Ah Boy Chicken Rice. (Photo: Denise Tan)

Chai was tight-lipped about his secret recipe, but he did reveal one tantalising little tidbit: “Our ginger is fried with sesame oil, so that the taste is not so overpowering.” That little touch made all the difference, adding subtle depth of flavour to the al dente rice.

Fresh chickens are delivered early each morning for Chai to prepare and cook on-site, ready to serve by 9.30am. He easily sells 30 to 40 whole chickens daily, evenly split between his poached and roasted versions.

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Ah Boy Chicken Rice's poached chicken with the three distinct layers. (Photo: Denise Tan)
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Ah Boy Chicken Rice's poached chicken. (Photo: Denise Tan)

Dressed in sesame oil and light soy sauce, the poached chicken was impeccably cooked to reveal three distinct layers. The skin was silky-smooth and the meat was moist and tender. But sandwiched between was the ultimate sign of Chai’s mastery – a glistening, gelatinous layer achieved only through precise poaching and cooling in an ice bath. The beautifully set collagen was the culmination of timing, temperature and talent.

In contrast, the roasted chicken had a deeper, more savoury flavour. Belying its name, this version is actually deep fried in hot oil, resulting in crinkly, burnished bronze skin and flesh that remained juicy and flavourful.

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The roasted chicken is actually deep fried. (Photo: Denise Tan)

The two different chicken preparations were both irresistible and good value at S$3.80 per plate. I would recommend ordering the set meal for S$4.60 though, because a great chicken rice experience isn’t complete without the sides.

Chai was careful to let every element shine – his house-made chilli was a chunky mince of ginger, ginger flower, lime, garlic, red chillies and seasonings. The zesty, spicy blend landed the perfect punch to cut through the richness of the chicken and rice.

The set also came with pickled cabbage, carrot and cucumber, which added a juicy crunch and a sour-sweet balance to the dish. Again, each refreshing bite lightened the indulgence of the dish.

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Szechuan vegetable soup was the soup of the day during our visit to Ah Boy Chicken Rice. (Photo: Denise Tan)

Rounding off the supporting cast of side dishes was the soup of the day, which changes regularly. On my visit, I was served a Szechuan vegetable soup, brimming with carrot, potato, onion, tomato and whole garlic cloves. The salty, fermented funk of the mustard greens paired well with the sweetness of the carrot and onion, while the potato added body to a broth boosted by collagen-rich chicken feet.

On other days, you might be served lotus root soup or black bean soup, but on Sundays, ABC soup is their staple. Made with potatoes, carrots, tomatoes and onions, it’s a simple and nourishing bowl of comfort.

The menu also includes braised egg, oyster sauce vegetables, curry chicken noodles and chicken cutlet rice, but their chicken rice is enough to ensure a repeat visit. Despite its far-flung location, a wholesome, satisfying meal at Ah Boy Chicken Rice makes every extra step feel justified.

Ah Boy Chicken Rice is located at V6 Food Court, 678A Choa Chu Kang Crescent, Singapore 681678. It’s open 9.30am to 8.30pm (or till sold out) and is closed on Thursdays.

Catch Makan Kakis with Denise Tan every Thursday from 11am on MediaCorp GOLD 905.


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