SINGAPORE: In September, the European Union banned a common ingredient found in many gel nail polishes used around the world, including in Singapore.
The chemical, known as trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), helps gel polish harden under UV light to create the glossy, long-lasting finish that makes it so popular and sets it apart from regular nail polish.
The ban follows the European Commission’s classification of TPO as “toxic for reproduction”, based on animal studies that linked high doses to fertility and fetal developmental problems.
Since the ban took effect, nail salons in the EU’s 27 member countries have had to withdraw any TPO-containing products and switch to alternatives. The United Kingdom is reportedly considering a similar ban in late 2026, while Dubai has started testing nail polishes for TPO.
Some industry groups have expressed reservations about the EU’s decision, pointing out that the animals in the study were fed high doses of TPO.
File photo. Gel polish has a glossy, long-lasting finish that makes it so popular. (Photo: iStock/Mykhailo Tamakhin)
It’s important to be clear that the EU ban doesn’t mean that gel manicures are unsafe across the board. When products are applied and cured correctly, only trace amounts of TPO remain on the nail surface. For the average manicure-goer, the actual risk is likely to be very low.
The concern is about repeated exposure. Salon workers who handle gels daily, or customers who redo their nails every few weeks, may face more cumulative risk.
Why then did EU regulators ban TPO? The answer lies in how the EU assesses safety.
Regulators there take a more precautionary approach as a strategy to mitigate potential hazards before waiting for more evidence of harm. This is different from other jurisdictions, which may weigh risk based on how much of the ingredient people are actually exposed to.
In Singapore, TPO is not banned. The Health Sciences Authority (HSA) permits it for professional use at limited concentrations, with labelling requirements such as “avoid skin contact”.
Unlike medicines, cosmetics in Singapore are not individually tested or approved before sale. Companies must ensure their products meet safety and labelling requirements, while HSA monitors the market through checks and investigations.
The Ministry of Manpower, the National Environment Agency and HSA issued a joint circular in 2024 advising salons on ventilation, safe handling of products and protecting workers and customers from exposure to harmful chemicals. TPO was not singled out, but the advisory reflected awareness that nail services involve substances that deserve careful use.
Does Singapore need to do more?
Gel manicures are hugely popular in Singapore: according to a news report last year, there were around 537 accredited nail and beauty salons as of March 2024, with many more working towards accreditation. During the pandemic, home-based nail services flourished, expanding access even further.
Few of us would think to ask what brand of gel polish a salon uses, let alone check the ingredients label for technical names like TPO. It would be reasonable for people to assume that what is available at the salon has already been vetted. And with the rise of e-commerce, gel polish kits, including those with TPO, are readily available online, shipped in from anywhere. A product banned in Europe can still be sold legally in Singapore or other markets.
None of this is to suggest that Singapore consumers need to avoid gel manicures. But greater awareness can help consumers make more deliberate choices.
Practical steps can help. Ask your salon what brand of polish they use. Check that ingredient lists are present and avoid unlabelled or decanted bottles.
Some gels may list TPO; knowing it is present can help you decide how often to use such products. For home kits, following curing instructions carefully to ensure the gel hardens properly. And give your nails breaks between appointments to reduce repeated exposure, not just to TPO, but also UV rays from the curing lamp, which have been linked to raising the risk of skin cancer.
The EU decision to ban TPO reflects a precautionary approach to potential risks, not a health emergency.
Globally, the nail care products market was estimated at US$23.6 billion in 2024, with the gel polish segment accounting for about 40 per cent of that market, according to Global Market Insights.
Regulations differ across markets, but what matters most for Singapore consumers is having the knowledge to make informed choices about these products.
Just as we are encouraged to check food labels before deciding what to purchase, it helps to take the same approach with cosmetic products.
Elyssa is a global health lawyer specialising in health emergencies and outbreak preparedness. She leads the Legal Frameworks and Governance team at the Duke-NUS Centre for Outbreak Preparedness in Singapore.
Continue reading...
The chemical, known as trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), helps gel polish harden under UV light to create the glossy, long-lasting finish that makes it so popular and sets it apart from regular nail polish.
The ban follows the European Commission’s classification of TPO as “toxic for reproduction”, based on animal studies that linked high doses to fertility and fetal developmental problems.
Since the ban took effect, nail salons in the EU’s 27 member countries have had to withdraw any TPO-containing products and switch to alternatives. The United Kingdom is reportedly considering a similar ban in late 2026, while Dubai has started testing nail polishes for TPO.
Some industry groups have expressed reservations about the EU’s decision, pointing out that the animals in the study were fed high doses of TPO.
File photo. Gel polish has a glossy, long-lasting finish that makes it so popular. (Photo: iStock/Mykhailo Tamakhin)
WHAT THE EU BAN MEANS
It’s important to be clear that the EU ban doesn’t mean that gel manicures are unsafe across the board. When products are applied and cured correctly, only trace amounts of TPO remain on the nail surface. For the average manicure-goer, the actual risk is likely to be very low.
The concern is about repeated exposure. Salon workers who handle gels daily, or customers who redo their nails every few weeks, may face more cumulative risk.
Why then did EU regulators ban TPO? The answer lies in how the EU assesses safety.
Regulators there take a more precautionary approach as a strategy to mitigate potential hazards before waiting for more evidence of harm. This is different from other jurisdictions, which may weigh risk based on how much of the ingredient people are actually exposed to.
Related:
WHAT IT MEANS FOR SINGAPORE CONSUMERS
In Singapore, TPO is not banned. The Health Sciences Authority (HSA) permits it for professional use at limited concentrations, with labelling requirements such as “avoid skin contact”.
Unlike medicines, cosmetics in Singapore are not individually tested or approved before sale. Companies must ensure their products meet safety and labelling requirements, while HSA monitors the market through checks and investigations.
The Ministry of Manpower, the National Environment Agency and HSA issued a joint circular in 2024 advising salons on ventilation, safe handling of products and protecting workers and customers from exposure to harmful chemicals. TPO was not singled out, but the advisory reflected awareness that nail services involve substances that deserve careful use.
Does Singapore need to do more?
Gel manicures are hugely popular in Singapore: according to a news report last year, there were around 537 accredited nail and beauty salons as of March 2024, with many more working towards accreditation. During the pandemic, home-based nail services flourished, expanding access even further.
Few of us would think to ask what brand of gel polish a salon uses, let alone check the ingredients label for technical names like TPO. It would be reasonable for people to assume that what is available at the salon has already been vetted. And with the rise of e-commerce, gel polish kits, including those with TPO, are readily available online, shipped in from anywhere. A product banned in Europe can still be sold legally in Singapore or other markets.
Related:
MAKING INFORMED CHOICES
None of this is to suggest that Singapore consumers need to avoid gel manicures. But greater awareness can help consumers make more deliberate choices.
Practical steps can help. Ask your salon what brand of polish they use. Check that ingredient lists are present and avoid unlabelled or decanted bottles.
Some gels may list TPO; knowing it is present can help you decide how often to use such products. For home kits, following curing instructions carefully to ensure the gel hardens properly. And give your nails breaks between appointments to reduce repeated exposure, not just to TPO, but also UV rays from the curing lamp, which have been linked to raising the risk of skin cancer.
The EU decision to ban TPO reflects a precautionary approach to potential risks, not a health emergency.
Globally, the nail care products market was estimated at US$23.6 billion in 2024, with the gel polish segment accounting for about 40 per cent of that market, according to Global Market Insights.
Regulations differ across markets, but what matters most for Singapore consumers is having the knowledge to make informed choices about these products.
Just as we are encouraged to check food labels before deciding what to purchase, it helps to take the same approach with cosmetic products.
Elyssa is a global health lawyer specialising in health emergencies and outbreak preparedness. She leads the Legal Frameworks and Governance team at the Duke-NUS Centre for Outbreak Preparedness in Singapore.
Continue reading...