“I have points to redeem the FairPrice pickleball paddles,” texted a colleague on my work group chat. “You can use my Pokemon ones,” another colleague offered. That was in response to my first time joining the team for a game of weekend pickleball. Nothing brings people together like the collective need to equip a potential initiate with the right gear. I’m feeling as loved as the baby macaque Punch-kun.
But being new to the pickleball scene had me in a quandary; it’s rather paiseh to play with borrowed equipment. But I wasn’t keen to blow my ang pow money on brand-new gear either. More curiously, what makes a pickleball paddle a pickleball paddle? What are the extra features you’re paying for if you bought a fancy one?
And if you’ve also recently gotten into padel, another popular racket sport that has been described as a mix of tennis and squash, you might be wondering: Can I use the same pickleball paddle for padel? Other than the perforations in padel rackets, they do look somewhat similar.
To save you the trouble of staring at rows and rows of rackets at Decathlon like I did, or showing up with the wrong gear, here are some tips from the pros to get you started right – at least equipment-wise.
Pickleball paddles have come a long way since the sport’s inception in the mid-60s in Seattle, US. Back then, paddles were a “monolithic plywood construction from the handle butt to the paddle tip”, said Lim Ee Kiong, the president of Singapore Pickleball Association. Imagine the noise.
The modern composite paddle that you hold in your hand was borne from hobbyists’ tinkering with “whatever scrap aluminum or nomex honeycomb panels” that they could scour from “specialised aircraft salvage dealers in Seattle”, said Lim.
These days, the most common core material is polymer honeycomb, said Dominik Kuhn, the founder of Pickleball Corner Singapore. “It is durable, relatively quiet and forgiving.” There are also aluminum honeycomb cores that provide control but less power than polymer cores, he added. If noise is a concern, there are paddles with foam cores or foam-enhanced constructions that use injected or layered foam, said Kuhn.
The other obvious change is the paddle’s shape. It has evolved from the oval and tear-drop shapes, according to Lim, to many others. The most common shapes nowadays are the standard (16 inch by 8 inch), the quad (like a rounded square), the hybrid (bridges the gap between the standard and quad), and the elongated (typically 16 inch to 17 inch in height).
Handle lengths, too, have altered slightly over the years. “A longer handle, when held close to the base, allows you to whip the paddle for more spin,” said Lim. And since double-handed play (holding the paddle with both hands) has become popular, handle lengths have also increased from about 5.25 inch to as much as 5.7 inch, he said.
There are three main types of pickleball paddles: power, control and balanced. Those characteristics are generally determined by the paddle’s core thickness, surface material, weight and shape, according to Kuhn:
1. POWER
Power paddles are heavier and designed for fast, aggressive play, which means the ball will bounce faster and higher with less effort, said Kuhn.
2. CONTROL
A thicker core softens impact and slightly increases the ball’s dwell time on the paddle to give you more control, Kuhn explained.
3. BALANCED
“These paddles offer enough pop for offensive shots, while maintaining control for soft play,” said Kuhn.
Generally, a power paddle is preferred for singles play and a control one for doubles, said Lim. For singles, a power paddle lets you fire off longer shots to keep your opponent away from the net. “In doubles, play is usually around the ‘kitchen’, and dinks and resets are more common, so control paddles are more useful to keep the ball in line.”
For newbies, “I would suggest the softer, control paddle to cushion the ball’s impact while the arm muscles develop”, advised Lim. “It is not fun when you start being able to sustain rallies, then succumb to tennis elbow or some other type of tendinitis.”
Kuhn recommended that for most recreational players, a balanced paddle with a polymer or foam-enhanced core, midweight construction (around 224g to 235g), and a forgiving standard or hybrid shape is more than sufficient. “Comfort, consistency and ease of play matter far more than marginal performance gains,” he said.
But don't worry if you've bought a paddle that doesn't quite suit your play style as you can tune your paddle with lead weight strips, said Lim. "Players can add weight at the grip to balance out the centre of mass; to the sides to improve the sweet spot and stabilise the paddle; or to the top to increase the head weight for power."
The prices of pickleball paddles can range from S$20 to as much as S$500 each. Or free if you’re playing with a borrowed paddle or using your colleague’s FairPrice points to redeem one.
“Higher-priced paddles reflect advanced materials, refined manufacturing, tighter tolerances, and extensive research and development,” said Kuhn. “They offer more consistent performance across the face, higher spin potential, better vibration dampening and longer durability.”
Lim doesn’t recommend the cheap ones that cost less than S$25 “because we really don’t know what kind of a core lies beneath the heavily painted surface; it could be wood”. And if you’re an unfamiliar player, you wouldn’t know how heavy or light a paddle should be, he said. “I would say paddles in the range of S$80 to S$150 would be reasonable and can take a player from beginner all the way to intermediate or even advanced-level play.”
(Photo: iStock/simon2579)
The most important court feature is the floor’s ability to provide ball bounce consistency, according to Lim. And that comes from having a floor with a continuous surface – no tiles, no unevenness.
“When pickleball was first introduced in Singapore, it was played on tiled floors at community clubs,” said Lim, which wasn’t ideal as the grouts can kill the ball bounce. “Most of the community clubs, after getting their facelifts, now have tiles with much smaller grout lines but they are still tiled.”
These days, “the typical sports halls in Singapore have underlays below the wood flooring to level the floor and provide some impact cushioning,” said Lim. “There are also hard courts with a concrete substrate, and proper pickleball courts with an asphalt substrate that is then coated with acrylic court paint.”
(Photo: iStock/gahsoon)
Of the lot, Lim found that the acrylic-coated surface offers more grit for the ball to gain traction. “For a varnished timber flooring, a spinning ball can skid and the bounce characteristic can change.”
Indoor and outdoor pickleball balls differ in hole count, weight and hardness to accommodate different court surfaces. Outdoor balls are harder, heavier (about 25g) and have 40 smaller holes for stability. Indoor balls are softer, lighter (about 22g) and have 26 larger holes for better, slower control on wood floors.
And for those with noise-sensitive neighbours, there are "stealth" balls made of foam that supposedly cut down noise by 90 per cent.
(Photo: iStock/David Prado)
Padel, which is gaining popularity as a networking sport in Singapore, looks to me like a lovechild between tennis and squash. You score like tennis (15-30-40) and you play in an enclosed court like squash, where you can bounce the ball off glass walls and mesh. "It is played with a smaller, less bouncy tennis ball designed for wall rebounds," said Tom Tan, a padel coach with SingPadel.
Back in the day (1969, to be exact) when padel first took off in Mexico, and later, Spain and Argentina, it was played with solid wooden paddles. It was only in the late 70s that someone figured perforations would reduce weight and improve manoeuvrability. But they were still made of wood and could weigh as much as 450g each. Talk about training your arm strength.
Aluminium and fibreglass lightened the padel scene in the late 80s and reduced the rackets’ weight by as much as 20 per cent. Carbon fibre introduced in the 90s further whittled down the fibreglass models’ grammage by up to 30 per cent. Today, padel rackets can weigh from 345g to 370g, according to Marco Duarte, the founder of Play Padel Singapore.
Padel rackets’ core also underwent changes, from early rubber compounds to EVA foam – yup, the cushiony stuff found in the midsoles of your running shoes. Polyethylene foam cores followed as an alternative to EVA.
“It’s also worth noting that there are other variations as well such as cork racquets,” said Duarte, to absorb vibrations that can worsen a shoulder, elbow or wrist problem.
Padel rackets can be defined by four factors: shape, balance, weight and materials, said Duarte:
1. SHAPE
2. BALANCE
3. WEIGHT
4. MATERIALS
(Photo: iStock/July Alcantara)
If you’re just starting out, advised Tan, a light (330g to 355g), round-shaped racket with a large sweet spot would serve you well. “You can opt for a fibreglass surface and EVA core for comfort and control.”
For intermediate players, try a heavier (355g to 370g) teardrop-shaped racket with an even balance for a mix of power and control, Tan suggested. Shoot for a fibreglass or carbon-fibre surface with an EVA or polymer core for balanced performance.
Padel rackets generally range from S$80 to over S$600, with high-quality models falling between S$250 and S$500.
“When you pay for a premium racket, you aren't just paying for a brand,” said Duarte. “You are paying for carbon fibre technology, anti-vibration systems to protect your joints and structural durability. High-end rackets use 12K or 18K carbon, which is more durable and provides a much more consistency when you hit the ball.”
Not if you want to get stared at by fellow players – or spend the session chasing after errant serves. Padel rackets are heavier and much thicker to generate the power you need to bounce the ball off the glass wall and mesh. But the racket’s robustness may be too much for the lightweight plastic ball used in pickleball and cause you to lose control of the ball.
Collapse Expand
But if you’re a beginner, some of those features may be lost on you. “High-end rackets may not offer a significant advantage for beginners, who should focus on developing skills,” said Tan. “A mid-range racket could be a good start.” Experienced players would notice the “improvements in comfort, performance and longevity, making it a worthwhile investment if you play regularly and aim to compete”, he added.
Definitely. A classic padel court for doubles measures 20m by 10m and is surrounded by glass and mesh. There are also singles courts that come in at 20m by 6m. "It’s too cramped and potentially dangerous for four people to be swinging their rackets on a singles court," explained Duarte. "Conversely, playing singles on a doubles court is exhausting because there is too much ground to cover."
Then, there are the panoramic courts. "These courts feature all-glass walls for an unobstructed view," said Tan. "The glass walls also provide smoother, more predictable rebounds as mesh walls create more erratic bounces."
Whether it's pickleball or padel, it's best not to. "Definitely, you need court shoes," said Lim Ee Kiong, the president of Singapore Pickleball Association. "Running shoes are designed for forward-only linear motion, while for pickleball (or padel), the shoes need to offer lateral stability and should be of a low profile to prevent ankle sprains. Shoes for tennis and badminton work well, too."
Collapse Expand
While padel is somewhat like tennis, you can’t play it on a tennis court. “The dimensions, turf, equipment and set-ups are different,” said Duarte. “Padel requires the glass walls to be part of the game. Without the walls, it’s just a mini-tennis match without the essential rebound element that makes padel unique”.
Unlike tennis courts, padel courts are typically covered with synthetic turf and have fine-grained silica sand sprinkled to allow ball bounce and sliding, which can prevent knee injuries from sudden stops, said Durate. “A fast court has less sand but more grip, while a slow court has more sand; it makes the ball ‘sit up’ and gives you more time to react.”
“There are also rubberised and hybrid surfaces that provide slower, more strategic play but are less common in Singapore,” Tan added.
Padel balls may resemble tennis balls but they are different. Padel balls are slightly smaller and have a lower pressure than the tennis ones. This means they provide less bounce and slower speed, which contribute to longer rallies.
But even within padel balls, there are fast and slow balls. Fast, high-pressure balls are ideal for attacking and great on slow courts, while slower, low-pressure balls offer more control, longer rallies and suit fast courts. You don't want to use slow balls on a slow court as they'll feel heavy and "dead". Playing with fast balls on a fast court wouldn't be much fun as the balls will be flying everywhere.
Continue reading...
But being new to the pickleball scene had me in a quandary; it’s rather paiseh to play with borrowed equipment. But I wasn’t keen to blow my ang pow money on brand-new gear either. More curiously, what makes a pickleball paddle a pickleball paddle? What are the extra features you’re paying for if you bought a fancy one?
And if you’ve also recently gotten into padel, another popular racket sport that has been described as a mix of tennis and squash, you might be wondering: Can I use the same pickleball paddle for padel? Other than the perforations in padel rackets, they do look somewhat similar.
To save you the trouble of staring at rows and rows of rackets at Decathlon like I did, or showing up with the wrong gear, here are some tips from the pros to get you started right – at least equipment-wise.
PICKLEBALL PADDLES: THE BACKGROUND
Pickleball paddles have come a long way since the sport’s inception in the mid-60s in Seattle, US. Back then, paddles were a “monolithic plywood construction from the handle butt to the paddle tip”, said Lim Ee Kiong, the president of Singapore Pickleball Association. Imagine the noise.
The modern composite paddle that you hold in your hand was borne from hobbyists’ tinkering with “whatever scrap aluminum or nomex honeycomb panels” that they could scour from “specialised aircraft salvage dealers in Seattle”, said Lim.
These days, the most common core material is polymer honeycomb, said Dominik Kuhn, the founder of Pickleball Corner Singapore. “It is durable, relatively quiet and forgiving.” There are also aluminum honeycomb cores that provide control but less power than polymer cores, he added. If noise is a concern, there are paddles with foam cores or foam-enhanced constructions that use injected or layered foam, said Kuhn.
The other obvious change is the paddle’s shape. It has evolved from the oval and tear-drop shapes, according to Lim, to many others. The most common shapes nowadays are the standard (16 inch by 8 inch), the quad (like a rounded square), the hybrid (bridges the gap between the standard and quad), and the elongated (typically 16 inch to 17 inch in height).
Handle lengths, too, have altered slightly over the years. “A longer handle, when held close to the base, allows you to whip the paddle for more spin,” said Lim. And since double-handed play (holding the paddle with both hands) has become popular, handle lengths have also increased from about 5.25 inch to as much as 5.7 inch, he said.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF PICKLEBALL PADDLES
There are three main types of pickleball paddles: power, control and balanced. Those characteristics are generally determined by the paddle’s core thickness, surface material, weight and shape, according to Kuhn:
1. POWER
Power paddles are heavier and designed for fast, aggressive play, which means the ball will bounce faster and higher with less effort, said Kuhn.
- Shape: Elongated, often close to the maximum height of 17 inch.
- Surface material: Fibreglass or other stiff, composite materials.
- Core thickness: Thin, usually 13mm to 14mm.
- Weight: 240g and above.
2. CONTROL
A thicker core softens impact and slightly increases the ball’s dwell time on the paddle to give you more control, Kuhn explained.
- Shape: Standard or widebody about 7.5 inch to 7.7 inch across.
- Surface material: Raw carbon fibres such as T700 and T800.
- Core thickness: Thick, most commonly 15mm to 16mm.
- Weight: 207g to 221g.
3. BALANCED
“These paddles offer enough pop for offensive shots, while maintaining control for soft play,” said Kuhn.
- Shape: Between standard and elongated shapes to balance reach, control, power and accuracy.
- Surface material: Layered or hybrid.
- Core thickness: Between power and control paddles, typically 14mm to 16mm.
- Weight: 224g to 238g.
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE?
Generally, a power paddle is preferred for singles play and a control one for doubles, said Lim. For singles, a power paddle lets you fire off longer shots to keep your opponent away from the net. “In doubles, play is usually around the ‘kitchen’, and dinks and resets are more common, so control paddles are more useful to keep the ball in line.”
For newbies, “I would suggest the softer, control paddle to cushion the ball’s impact while the arm muscles develop”, advised Lim. “It is not fun when you start being able to sustain rallies, then succumb to tennis elbow or some other type of tendinitis.”
Kuhn recommended that for most recreational players, a balanced paddle with a polymer or foam-enhanced core, midweight construction (around 224g to 235g), and a forgiving standard or hybrid shape is more than sufficient. “Comfort, consistency and ease of play matter far more than marginal performance gains,” he said.
But don't worry if you've bought a paddle that doesn't quite suit your play style as you can tune your paddle with lead weight strips, said Lim. "Players can add weight at the grip to balance out the centre of mass; to the sides to improve the sweet spot and stabilise the paddle; or to the top to increase the head weight for power."
IS AN EXPENSIVE PADDLE WORTH IT?
The prices of pickleball paddles can range from S$20 to as much as S$500 each. Or free if you’re playing with a borrowed paddle or using your colleague’s FairPrice points to redeem one.
“Higher-priced paddles reflect advanced materials, refined manufacturing, tighter tolerances, and extensive research and development,” said Kuhn. “They offer more consistent performance across the face, higher spin potential, better vibration dampening and longer durability.”
Lim doesn’t recommend the cheap ones that cost less than S$25 “because we really don’t know what kind of a core lies beneath the heavily painted surface; it could be wood”. And if you’re an unfamiliar player, you wouldn’t know how heavy or light a paddle should be, he said. “I would say paddles in the range of S$80 to S$150 would be reasonable and can take a player from beginner all the way to intermediate or even advanced-level play.”
(Photo: iStock/simon2579)
DOES THE COURT MATTER?
The most important court feature is the floor’s ability to provide ball bounce consistency, according to Lim. And that comes from having a floor with a continuous surface – no tiles, no unevenness.
“When pickleball was first introduced in Singapore, it was played on tiled floors at community clubs,” said Lim, which wasn’t ideal as the grouts can kill the ball bounce. “Most of the community clubs, after getting their facelifts, now have tiles with much smaller grout lines but they are still tiled.”
These days, “the typical sports halls in Singapore have underlays below the wood flooring to level the floor and provide some impact cushioning,” said Lim. “There are also hard courts with a concrete substrate, and proper pickleball courts with an asphalt substrate that is then coated with acrylic court paint.”
(Photo: iStock/gahsoon)
Of the lot, Lim found that the acrylic-coated surface offers more grit for the ball to gain traction. “For a varnished timber flooring, a spinning ball can skid and the bounce characteristic can change.”
DIFFERENT TYPES OF BALLS
Indoor and outdoor pickleball balls differ in hole count, weight and hardness to accommodate different court surfaces. Outdoor balls are harder, heavier (about 25g) and have 40 smaller holes for stability. Indoor balls are softer, lighter (about 22g) and have 26 larger holes for better, slower control on wood floors.
And for those with noise-sensitive neighbours, there are "stealth" balls made of foam that supposedly cut down noise by 90 per cent.
PADEL RACKETS: THE BACKGROUND
(Photo: iStock/David Prado)
Padel, which is gaining popularity as a networking sport in Singapore, looks to me like a lovechild between tennis and squash. You score like tennis (15-30-40) and you play in an enclosed court like squash, where you can bounce the ball off glass walls and mesh. "It is played with a smaller, less bouncy tennis ball designed for wall rebounds," said Tom Tan, a padel coach with SingPadel.
Back in the day (1969, to be exact) when padel first took off in Mexico, and later, Spain and Argentina, it was played with solid wooden paddles. It was only in the late 70s that someone figured perforations would reduce weight and improve manoeuvrability. But they were still made of wood and could weigh as much as 450g each. Talk about training your arm strength.
Aluminium and fibreglass lightened the padel scene in the late 80s and reduced the rackets’ weight by as much as 20 per cent. Carbon fibre introduced in the 90s further whittled down the fibreglass models’ grammage by up to 30 per cent. Today, padel rackets can weigh from 345g to 370g, according to Marco Duarte, the founder of Play Padel Singapore.
Padel rackets’ core also underwent changes, from early rubber compounds to EVA foam – yup, the cushiony stuff found in the midsoles of your running shoes. Polyethylene foam cores followed as an alternative to EVA.
“It’s also worth noting that there are other variations as well such as cork racquets,” said Duarte, to absorb vibrations that can worsen a shoulder, elbow or wrist problem.
WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT PADEL RACKETS?
Padel rackets can be defined by four factors: shape, balance, weight and materials, said Duarte:
1. SHAPE
- Round: Large sweet spot in the centre. Best for beginners and defensive players who want control.
- Teardrop: Balanced but slightly smaller sweet spot than the round shape’s. Best for intermediate players wanting a mix of power and control.
- Diamond: Smaller sweet spot located higher up on the racket. Top-heavy and harder to manoeuvre but offers maximum power for advanced players.
2. BALANCE
- Low balance: Weighted towards the handle. Feels light and easy to move.
- High balance: Weighted towards the head. Provides "hammer-like" momentum for smashes but can strain the wrist and forearm.
3. WEIGHT
- Light: Less than 360g. Easy to swing, great for reaction volleys and preventing injuries like tennis elbow.
- Heavy: More than 365g. Provides power but requires stronger technique to avoid injury.
4. MATERIALS
- Surface: Fiberglass is flexible and forgiving, while carbon fibre (3K, 12K and 18K) is stiff and gives explosive power.
- Core: Usually EVA for more power, or foam for better vibration absorption.
- Layers: More layers of carbon fibre usually mean a more durable and "responsive" racket.
(Photo: iStock/July Alcantara)
HOW DO YOU CHOOSE?
If you’re just starting out, advised Tan, a light (330g to 355g), round-shaped racket with a large sweet spot would serve you well. “You can opt for a fibreglass surface and EVA core for comfort and control.”
For intermediate players, try a heavier (355g to 370g) teardrop-shaped racket with an even balance for a mix of power and control, Tan suggested. Shoot for a fibreglass or carbon-fibre surface with an EVA or polymer core for balanced performance.
IS AN EXPENSIVE RACKET WORTH IT?
Padel rackets generally range from S$80 to over S$600, with high-quality models falling between S$250 and S$500.
“When you pay for a premium racket, you aren't just paying for a brand,” said Duarte. “You are paying for carbon fibre technology, anti-vibration systems to protect your joints and structural durability. High-end rackets use 12K or 18K carbon, which is more durable and provides a much more consistency when you hit the ball.”
CAN YOU USE A PICKLEBALL PADDLE TO PLAY PADEL AND VICE VERSA?
Not if you want to get stared at by fellow players – or spend the session chasing after errant serves. Padel rackets are heavier and much thicker to generate the power you need to bounce the ball off the glass wall and mesh. But the racket’s robustness may be too much for the lightweight plastic ball used in pickleball and cause you to lose control of the ball.
Collapse Expand
But if you’re a beginner, some of those features may be lost on you. “High-end rackets may not offer a significant advantage for beginners, who should focus on developing skills,” said Tan. “A mid-range racket could be a good start.” Experienced players would notice the “improvements in comfort, performance and longevity, making it a worthwhile investment if you play regularly and aim to compete”, he added.
DOES THE COURT MATTER?
Definitely. A classic padel court for doubles measures 20m by 10m and is surrounded by glass and mesh. There are also singles courts that come in at 20m by 6m. "It’s too cramped and potentially dangerous for four people to be swinging their rackets on a singles court," explained Duarte. "Conversely, playing singles on a doubles court is exhausting because there is too much ground to cover."
Then, there are the panoramic courts. "These courts feature all-glass walls for an unobstructed view," said Tan. "The glass walls also provide smoother, more predictable rebounds as mesh walls create more erratic bounces."
CAN YOU WEAR RUNNING SHOES TO PLAY?
Whether it's pickleball or padel, it's best not to. "Definitely, you need court shoes," said Lim Ee Kiong, the president of Singapore Pickleball Association. "Running shoes are designed for forward-only linear motion, while for pickleball (or padel), the shoes need to offer lateral stability and should be of a low profile to prevent ankle sprains. Shoes for tennis and badminton work well, too."
Collapse Expand
While padel is somewhat like tennis, you can’t play it on a tennis court. “The dimensions, turf, equipment and set-ups are different,” said Duarte. “Padel requires the glass walls to be part of the game. Without the walls, it’s just a mini-tennis match without the essential rebound element that makes padel unique”.
Unlike tennis courts, padel courts are typically covered with synthetic turf and have fine-grained silica sand sprinkled to allow ball bounce and sliding, which can prevent knee injuries from sudden stops, said Durate. “A fast court has less sand but more grip, while a slow court has more sand; it makes the ball ‘sit up’ and gives you more time to react.”
“There are also rubberised and hybrid surfaces that provide slower, more strategic play but are less common in Singapore,” Tan added.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF BALLS
Padel balls may resemble tennis balls but they are different. Padel balls are slightly smaller and have a lower pressure than the tennis ones. This means they provide less bounce and slower speed, which contribute to longer rallies.
But even within padel balls, there are fast and slow balls. Fast, high-pressure balls are ideal for attacking and great on slow courts, while slower, low-pressure balls offer more control, longer rallies and suit fast courts. You don't want to use slow balls on a slow court as they'll feel heavy and "dead". Playing with fast balls on a fast court wouldn't be much fun as the balls will be flying everywhere.
Continue reading...